ANMELDELSER

Anthony Vaccarello’s take on Saint Laurent

Image: Vogue.com


I går løftede italiensk-belgiske Anthony Vaccarello sløret for, hvad vi kan forvente af os den nye Saint Laurent-kvinde, efter at Heidi Slimane flyttede sit skinny og skrabede design-dna fra det franske modehus til amerikanske Calvin Klein.

Anthony Vaccarello viste show i Saint Laurent-husets kommende hovedkvarter i Paris, og det gamle klosters rå omgivelser satte rammen for showet, der hentede inspiration i 1980’erne med voluminøse one-shoulder kjoler i læder tilsat boyfriend-jeans og lange øreringe. En favorit fra Heidi Slimanes sidste skud for Saint Laurent var da også en skrigrød sag med hjerteformede skulderpuder, og Anthony Vaccarellos eget bud på det sexy look anno 1980’erne var dermed oplagt.

Arven efter Yves Saint Laurent blev med Heidi Slimane i spidsen taget til LA og Slimane beordrede navneskift fra ”Yves Saint Laurent” til ”Saint Laurent”. Med Anthony Vaccarello ved roret er huset flyttet fra det kendis-orienterede LA tilbage til elegante Paris – og det skal blive spændende at følge Anthonys fortolkning af arven efter Yves. Herfra håber vi, at Anthony ikke vil tøve med at kigge i arkiverne, og give os sin fortolkning af det, som modeskaberen Yves Saint Laurent var bedst til: Det farverige, feminine og elegante – altid i en moderne indpakning og med referencer til alverdens kulturer. Go’ Anthony Vaccarello!  
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At Paris Fashion Week SS17 Anthony Vaccarello presented his first collection as the creative director of Saint Laurent after Heidi Slimane left the position in favor of Calvin Klein.
Under the direction of Heidi Slimane the headquarter of “Yves Saint Laurent” was moved from Paris to LA and Slimane also changed its name to “Saint Laurent”. Rumor has it that the name will be re-changed to the original “Yves Saint Laurent” but all we know for now is that Paris once again will be the headquarter of Saint Laurent. A former monastery is being restored into the headquarter-to-be and here the first Saint Laurent collection from Belgian-Italian Anthony Vaccarello’s hand was presented.

The sexy 1980’ties look was the collection’s starting point as puffed-shouldered dresses was paired with boyfriend jeans and big earrings. Our favorite look from Slimane’s last collection for Saint Laurent was a red 1980’ties inspired dress with puffed heart-shaped shoulders and it thus seemed like Anthony Vacarello had been looking to Slimane and taken his 80’ties vibe a step further.

We can only hope that this first collection from Anthony Vacarello’s hand is an attempt to bring Yves Saint Laurent’s original design-dna back into the limelight. Under the influence of Heidi Slimane we have been missing a modern version of Yves Saint Lauren’t ability to work with colors and elegance in a contemporary style. Please Anthony Vacarello bring back what we once knew to be the house of (Yves) Saint Laurent!
  

ANMELDELSER

Burberry gør op med det traditionelle modeshow // Burberry…

Image: Burberry

Da Burberry i går aftes holdt show, gjorde modehusets chefdesigner Christopher Bailey op med det traditionelle modeshow og lagde byggestenene til en ny, visionær strategi for modeshowets fremtid.

Vi så allerede den nye ”see-now-buy-now” model ved New York Fashion Week, som via online streaming og sociale medier inviterer offentligheden med til showet, hvorefter man med det samme kan købe tøjet, der vises på catwalken. Her gik designere som Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren og Tom Ford forrest – hvilket for Tommy Hilfigers vedkommende resulterede i, at kollektionen med hashtagget ”TommyNow” er blevet vist 1 milliard gange på Instagram og Twitter.

Men Burberrys chefdesigner Christopher Bailey tog i går aftes, d. 19. september 2016, skridtet videre. Han mener nemlig ikke, at det sæsonbestemte sommer- eller vintershow er svarende til, hvor på kloden modehusets globale forbrugere befinder sig. Derfor hed kollektionen blot ”september”, opkaldt efter den måned, hvor tøjet blev vist – når Burberry igen viser show til februar vil kollektionen således hedde ”februar”. Som forbrugere havde vi altså mulighed for at købe tøjet på catwalken med det samme, men hvad der er mindst lige så interessant er, at Christopher Bailey sammenlagde Burberrys herre-og dame kollektion i ét og samme show.

Det er ikke ualmindeligt at se mandlige modeller på kvindetøjets catwalk – og omvendt. Men at et modehus ligefrem vælger at slå de feminine og maskuline pjalter sammen, dét er nyskabende – og siger noget om moden anno 2016: I det personlige udtryks navn handler det i mindre grad om at blende ind og ligne de andre respektive mænd eller kvinder. Din styling taler for sig selv, og føler du dig hjemme i det tøj du har på, er alt tilladt.

I showets kønsneutrale ånd havde Cristopher Bailey desuden ladet sig inspirere af Virginia Wolfs bog ”Orlando” fra 1928, der (sjovt nok) handler om en mand som skifter køn til kvinde.
I videoen herunder kan du se Burberrys flotte show, der blev afholdt i går aftes i London:

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When Burberry last night, September 19 2016, threw a show at London Fashion Week a game changing approach to the traditional fashion show was on the agenda.   

Creative director Christopher Bailey implemented the new business model “see-now-buy-now”, which allows consumers to buy what they see on the catwalk immediately after the show. Brands such as Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Laurent have already benefitted from the new model through means of social media and live streaming. During the recently held fashion week in New York 1 billion reached the Tommy Hilfiger show using the hashtag “TommyNow”.

But what is even more interesting is Christopher Bailey’s approach to the fashion show defined by either the summer or the winter season. We know it as “spring/summer” or “fall/winter” but at Burberry’s show last night, the collection was named in accordance with the month in which it was shown: “September”. According to Bailey relating to a collection defined by the seasonal changes of Europe does not make sense to Burberry’s global consumer. Neither does relating to women’s or men’s wear which was the reason why Burberry’s show was composed by both women’s wear and men’s wear.

Seeing male models modeling the women’s wear and vice versa is not unusual but the radical choice of turning the women’s and men’s show into one is innovative.

The “September” collection was inspired by Virginia Wolf’s novel “Orlando” from 1928 that tells the story of a man who is turned into a woman, and the source of inspiration reflected the blend of male and female styles and models.

Watch the video of Burberry’s beautiful “September” show here:   


ANBEFALER

“Elvis Style” en hyldest til Elvis’ indflydelse på moden…

Images: PR


Her på FashionFladen er vi, inspireret af mode- og designjournalist Zoey Goto, gået i det nørdede hjørne. I over ti år har Zoey nemlig fulgt i Elvis’ fodspor og udforsket hans stil, og det er der kommet bogen Elvis Style ud af.

Elvis’ indflydelse på (især) herremode er ikke til at tage fejl af. Med sine farverige og glamourøse jakkesæt, pomade hår og amerikanerbiler indtog han den ultimative plads som teenage-idol i den vestlige verden, og Zoey Goto har da også talt med eksperter som Sex and The City stylist Patricia Fields og Academy Award vindende designer Mark Bridges om Elvis ’ indflydelse på mode og popkultur.     

Alex Bilmes, redaktør på det engelske mandemagasin Esquire fortæller i forbindelse med udgivelsen, at Elvis’ indflydelse på mændenes garderobe er uovertruffen, og at den stadig er tilstede i det svært definerbare rum, hvor den preppy stil møder et rocket men figursyet ”work wear” look.

I den 175-sider lange bog tages du med på en rejse i Elvis stilunivers af vilde frisurer, tøj, biler og interiør der inspirerede 1950’ernes unge – og stadig gør det. Tjek den ud på Amazone.com!
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Inspired by fashion and design journalist Zoey Goto we are finding ourselves in the nerdy corner of fashion. We are inspired – and fascinated by Zoey who for more than a decade has worked on the book and conducted research trips taking her from an imitation of Graceland in the suburbs of Denmark, to The Deep South where she met Elvis’ tailor.

To gain insights into Elvis’ influence on contemporary design culture – from pop stars and high-end fashion houses Zoey also spoke to a number of leading design experts to shed fresh light on Elvis’ design choices and influence. These include Sex & the City stylist Patricia Fields and Academy Award winning costume designer Mark Bridges.

Being a male and challenging the boundaries of masculine wardrobe Elvis especially left his footprint on menswear. Alex Bilmes editor of the British magazine Esquire is an expert on the topic and he says:

‘Elvis’s influence on men’s style is incalculable. You can still see his legacy everywhere – that indefinable but instantly recognizable point where preppy meets rocker meets work-wear meets tailoring’.

Find Elvis Style on Amazone.com!



ANBEFALER

Jean Phillip SS17: The male anno 2016

Images: Jean Phillip / PR

Designer Jean Phillip præsenterede sin SS17 kollektion for en lille skare af særligt udvalgte indkøbere og presse. Modeshowet i sin klassiske form (stort catwalk show med modepresse og indkøbere på første række) er i disse tider under forandring, og Jean Phillips valg afspejler tidens trend – med de muligheder for eksponering internettet og de sociale medier giver, skal der meget til, før det kan betale sig at afholde de (meget) dyre shows. Desuden fortæller Jean Phillip, at han fik lov til at vise kollektionen på den udvalgte location, netop fordi antallet af gæster var begrænset til de få vigtigste. 

Jean Phillip har et moderne take på menswear, og vi kan spore den moderne mand i hans designs: På hjemmefronten må han gerne dyrke sine feminine sider, men skal samtidig vise autoritet. Han må gerne træne og være en sports mand, og han må gerne gå op i mode, dog uden at skille sig alt for meget ud fra mængden… det er ikke let! Jean Phillip viser mandens feminine dobbelthed i sine snit: V-halse, ankelbukser og ærmeløse toppe. Dog uden at gå på kompromis med den maskuline attitude som vi særligt lægger mærke til i Jean Phillips brug af referencer til uniformen – the devil lies in the detail! Et favoritstyle fra Jean Phillips SS17 kollektion er bomberjakken der med få virkemidler har fået et kreativt tvist. 

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Menswear designer Jean Phillip showed his SS17 collection to a carefully selected crowd of buyers and press. Many designers are choosing that path as one can reach a wide audience through means of online and sociale media exposure. Jean Phillip tells FashionFladen that he had the opportunity to showcase the collection in the beautiful Copenhagen building because his number of invited guests was as limited as possible. 

Jean Phillip has a modern take on menswear that reflects society’s expectations to the modern male: He has to fullfield the “female role” in the domestic settings yet his partner want him to show authority. He should go to the gym and care about fashion – but not so much that he becomes “the fashion gig” of the crowd. It is not easy but Jean Phillip proves that it is possible. With feminine cuts such as sleeveless tops and v-necks cuttles for the feminine while inspiration from the uniform reflects masculinity – the devil lies in the detail! A favorite style was Jean Phillip’s take on the bomber jacket which had gotten a creative and personal twist.