Designer’s Nest, Copenhagen Fashion Week Aw19, 29th of January 2019.
by Iulian S
The Designers’ Nest Award is an independent non-profit design contest, which runs in collaboration with the six leading Nordic design schools. Founded by Jan Busch Carlsen in February 2005, the contest has the aim of rewarding talented and promising design students with recognition from the established world of fashion and providing them with professional support. The winner receives a prize of 50,000 dkk to further develop and promote his or her talent.
The location of the Designer’s Nest competition was the Lokomotivværkstedet “Kedelsmedjen”. The industrial atmosphere of the place and the upbeat electronic music contributed to an edgy and vibrant runway.
Most of the designers chose to focus on sustainability and social issues. The designers were questioning gender and challenged the current waste of the fashion industry by using recycled materials. The fabrics have varied, from leather to knit and plastic, and many designers include pastels and intense neon colors.
Third place went to Ali Akbari with a collection that questioned gender in Afghan society, where girls are raised as boys. The young girls are dressed in masculine clothes and have their hair cut in order to be identified as boys. When they reach puberty they are required to make a transition into young women again and prepare for marriage.
The designer deconstructed the idea of gender with shapes and silhouettes that simultaneously emphasized and hid the body. Elevated shoulders inspired from early Maison Martin Margiela collections were juxtaposed with asymmetrical cuts and ripped fabrics. The masculine elements were cut in black and white fabrics, while the feminine bloomed in beautiful blue embroidered fabrics.
Tuuli-Tytti Koivula from Aalto University took second place with her colorful collection inspired by Finnish folk dresses. The dresses were lavishly embellished with ribbons and ruffles that came straight from a fairy tale. Fabrics were repurposed, with supermarket plastic bags transformed into ethereal head scarves and ribbons. The garments were joyful and youthful, channeling a Lolita meets Little Red Riding Hood fantasy. Overall, the collection proved that sustainability can be fun, creative and youthful.
The winner of the award was Henna Lampinen from Aalto University. The beautifully crafted collection used the techniques of patchwork used by the factory workers in the 19th Century. The collection celebrates the strength and resilience of active women. The shapes were feminine yet comfortable and dynamic, allowing movement to be freely. Heavy wool fabrics were connected with strong visible stitching emphasizing resilience and power. The earthy colors were inspired by the land and forests of the Finnish landscape.
See the photographies of the three winners in the gallery below. All photos: Copenhagen Fashion Week