by Iulian Suman
During the last seasons, normcore was replaced by a more insidious trend that has tacky and trickle-up fashion at its core.
Trickle-Up Fashion means that a particular style that belongs to the streets, worn by the lower income group is picked by the designers and the upper-class buyers of the end design.
During the reign of Vivienne Westwood, it was punk culture. Nowadays, its Post-Soviet aesthetic.
In the past, the West was in the center and the East at the periphery, but lately, the West started to follow the East.
Hungry for fresh and new, fashion found new sources of inspiration in Russian streetwear.
Demna Gvasalia, Gosha Rubchinski, and Lotta Volkova are the best-known designers who share their 90’s post-Soviet experience to the world.
All of them understood how to break the internet with fast design and oh-so-cool styling.
Lotta Volkova is a Russian stylist who took over the world with her raw and underground aesthetic. A constant collaborator with Vetements and Balenciaga, she conquered the fashion world, becoming the best-known stylist in the industry.
A constant collaborator of Vogue, she works with everyone who is someone, from photographers such as Jurgen Teller to brands such as Miu Miu and Marc Jacobs.
Lotta Volkova is known for adding a dash of tacky to beauty. In an interview with The Guardian, the famous Russian stylist mentioned that “Conventionally beautiful things are … boring.”
Here the universe conveys the new found freedom of the post-Soviet era, where luxurious elements are mixed with the mundane.
She truly incorporates bath typing in her visual universe. Something is always off-putting and not right there, but always interesting and intriguing.
Demna Gvasalia is the creative director of Balenciaga and head designer at fashion collective Vetements.
The Georgian designer esthetics have infiltrated fashion, streetwear, and lifestyle. A social media darling, he knows how to appeal to generation Z with his catchy nodes to contemporary culture.
As a head designer of Balenciaga, he managed to make tacky and mundane luxurious. His collections are featured in unconventional runway places, such as clubs or Chinese restaurants.
Gvasalia is best known for putting crocs on the runway, but also for the blue leather replica of the Ikea Frakta bag. He managed to launch the trend of ugly dad snickers, with the hugely successful Balenciaga Triple S.
Vetements was established in 2014 as a fashion collective, with Lotta Volkova among the founders. The first collection consisted of off-trend everyday garments, worn by street models. Vetements took the fashion world by storm and turned ugly into cool.
Subversive and anti-fashion, the company focuses on collaborations, ironic tees, 2XL oversized outerwear, usually sported by street models (real people). Not far from controversy, Vetements was accused of appropriating the work of other brands, and on emphasizing styling instead of design.
At the moment, the bad taste has become a reaction to boredom towards fashion. Somehow we got tired of beautiful models featuring beautiful garments.
There is something refreshing in this trend because it is relatable. We all look ratty some days, we all just want to hide behind that oversized hoodie.
Sometimes we want to look like we just don’t care. Bad taste and tacky is just another name for freedom.