ANMELDELSER

Anthony Vaccarello’s take on Saint Laurent

Image: Vogue.com


I går løftede italiensk-belgiske Anthony Vaccarello sløret for, hvad vi kan forvente af os den nye Saint Laurent-kvinde, efter at Heidi Slimane flyttede sit skinny og skrabede design-dna fra det franske modehus til amerikanske Calvin Klein.

Anthony Vaccarello viste show i Saint Laurent-husets kommende hovedkvarter i Paris, og det gamle klosters rå omgivelser satte rammen for showet, der hentede inspiration i 1980’erne med voluminøse one-shoulder kjoler i læder tilsat boyfriend-jeans og lange øreringe. En favorit fra Heidi Slimanes sidste skud for Saint Laurent var da også en skrigrød sag med hjerteformede skulderpuder, og Anthony Vaccarellos eget bud på det sexy look anno 1980’erne var dermed oplagt.

Arven efter Yves Saint Laurent blev med Heidi Slimane i spidsen taget til LA og Slimane beordrede navneskift fra ”Yves Saint Laurent” til ”Saint Laurent”. Med Anthony Vaccarello ved roret er huset flyttet fra det kendis-orienterede LA tilbage til elegante Paris – og det skal blive spændende at følge Anthonys fortolkning af arven efter Yves. Herfra håber vi, at Anthony ikke vil tøve med at kigge i arkiverne, og give os sin fortolkning af det, som modeskaberen Yves Saint Laurent var bedst til: Det farverige, feminine og elegante – altid i en moderne indpakning og med referencer til alverdens kulturer. Go’ Anthony Vaccarello!  
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At Paris Fashion Week SS17 Anthony Vaccarello presented his first collection as the creative director of Saint Laurent after Heidi Slimane left the position in favor of Calvin Klein.
Under the direction of Heidi Slimane the headquarter of “Yves Saint Laurent” was moved from Paris to LA and Slimane also changed its name to “Saint Laurent”. Rumor has it that the name will be re-changed to the original “Yves Saint Laurent” but all we know for now is that Paris once again will be the headquarter of Saint Laurent. A former monastery is being restored into the headquarter-to-be and here the first Saint Laurent collection from Belgian-Italian Anthony Vaccarello’s hand was presented.

The sexy 1980’ties look was the collection’s starting point as puffed-shouldered dresses was paired with boyfriend jeans and big earrings. Our favorite look from Slimane’s last collection for Saint Laurent was a red 1980’ties inspired dress with puffed heart-shaped shoulders and it thus seemed like Anthony Vacarello had been looking to Slimane and taken his 80’ties vibe a step further.

We can only hope that this first collection from Anthony Vacarello’s hand is an attempt to bring Yves Saint Laurent’s original design-dna back into the limelight. Under the influence of Heidi Slimane we have been missing a modern version of Yves Saint Lauren’t ability to work with colors and elegance in a contemporary style. Please Anthony Vacarello bring back what we once knew to be the house of (Yves) Saint Laurent!